Indoor wood boiler hook up

Closed Indoor system - Heat Exchanger Detailing This drawing shows the simplest way to connect an outdoor wood furnace to central air as well as the.
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Place the furnace on the concrete pad. Measure the distance from the house to the furnace. Take a PEX pipe i. Put the PVC pipe into the trench too. Mount a heat exchanger in the outlet plenum ventilator of the furnace. You should be able to buy one that fits your plenum. The heat exchanger should easily slide into the plenum. You can fasten it in place with an L -shaped bracket.

Connect one end of the PEX pipe to the furnace, and the heat exchanger to the hot water heater. Use another run of pipe and a pump to fasten the other end of the PEX pipe to the hot water heater. Put the circuit breaker into the breaker box. Attach the V wire to the circuit breaker and the furnace. Install and connect the thermostat. Fill the furnace with water. For example, a basement stove may not safely use an outside air kit.

Firewood is usually measured in English-speaking countries in a quantity called a cord , measuring cubic feet 3. Firewood may be purchased by the cord, or by a fraction of a cord. The term "face cord" is commonly used to describe varying volumes of wood. Nominally it means 4' x 8' x an unspecified third measurement, but the term is often used by unscrupulous sellers to mean varying amounts.

Experienced firewood buyers and honest firewood sellers do not usually use the term "face cord". When purchasing, cutting, or collecting firewood, it is good to be aware of the difference between hardwood and softwood. Both hardwood and softwood have similar energy contents by mass, but not by volume. In other words, a piece of hardwood would usually be heavier and have more available energy than the same sized piece of softwood. Hardwoods, derived from trees such as oak and ash, may burn at a slower rate, resulting in sustained output.

Many softwoods are derived from conifers , which are fast growing and may burn at a faster rate. This is one reason why softwood pellets for pellet stoves are popular. The primary advantage of hardwoods are that they tend to contain more potential energy than the same volume of a softwood, thus increasing the amount of potential heat that can be stacked into one stoveload. Hardwood tends to form and maintain a bed of hot coals, which release lower amounts of heat for a long time.

Hook up thermostat outdoor wood boiler - Makoto

Hardwoods are ideal for long, low burns, especially in stoves with a poor ability to sustain a low burn, or in mild weather when high heat output is not required. Softwoods, in contrast, tend to burn hot and fast with little coaling. They may leave less ash than hardwoods. Softwoods are ideal for fast, hot burns.


They produce excellent heat and do not fill the stove with coals, a frequent problem for those pushing their hardwood-fired stoves hard to get the maximum possible heat out of them. Not all hardwoods have a higher potential energy content than all softwoods. Wood varies by species and even individual trees a tree with many years of slow growth will have a higher BTU content than a tree of the same species and same size than a tree with a few years of rapid growth.

Many softwoods will season dry much more quickly than many hardwoods.

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For example, pine that has been cut, split, stacked and topcovered will usually be ready to burn in one year; oak may be expected to take three years under the same conditions. Softwood is often said to be dangerous to burn because it generates more dangerous creosote than hardwood. This myth is pervasive in the North American northeast, where both types of wood are commonly available.

It is not common in the northwest, where most full-time wood burners burn pine and fir exclusively. A basic understanding of what creosote is and how it accumulates in your flue is all you need to rid yourself of this byproduct.

It is possible that this myth originated with old-fashioned stoves and fireplaces. These "appliances" did not require seasoned wood, and frequently did not receive it. As a result, they often experienced very low flue temperatures- usually in flues that were not insulated as modern flues are. The combination of low firebox temperatures due to high moisture content in the wood and low flue temperatures due to lack of insulation led to high levels of creosote accumulation.

Burning a wood that emits a lot of sparks such as pine in an old-fashioned fireplace or stove will lead to sparks going directly into the flue, which can lead to a dangerous chimney fire if the flue is coated in creosote. Modern stoves which are operated properly do not cause this high level of creosote accumulation. While different wood species do contain varying levels of volatile organic compounds, the difference is academic to the wood burner. All woods produce creosote. All woods will cause creosote accumulation if burned improperly.

So-called dangerous woods such as pine are in fact safer than woods such as oak, as they will burn hotter and thus help keep flue temperatures up, and their fast seasoning will help ensure that novice wood burners are burning reasonably dry wood. Dry wood produces more usable heat than wet wood, since the energy used to evaporate the water from the wood is lost up the chimney.

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Freshly cut wood known as green wood has a high moisture content. Different wood species have different moisture contents, which also vary tree to tree. Burning fuel that is mostly water uses much of the combustion energy to evaporate the water. This results in low firebox temperatures and low flue temperatures.

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Firewood with a moisture content below 20 per cent by weight can burn efficiently. This is the "free" moisture content absorbed in the wood fibers, and does not include the chemically bound hydrogen and oxygen content. Moisture content can be reduced by outdoor air-drying "seasoning" , for a period of several months in summer weather.

How to Install an Outdoor Furnace

Solar-powered or fuel-fired kilns can accelerate the drying process. The most common process of removing the excess moisture is called seasoning. Seasoning by air-drying the wood can take three years or more. Wood is dried in outdoor well-ventilated covered structures, or in a kiln. All wood will release creosote vapors when burned. Modern stoves will burn the vapors, either via direct secondary combustion or via a catalyst. Very little, if any, creosote will escape a properly operating modern stove's secondary combustion.

Creosote that does escape may still not be harmful.

Adding a wood boiler to oil boiler

It leaves the wood in gaseous form. It will not condense on surfaces above degrees Fahrenheit. Modern flues are insulated to help ensure that they do not fall below this temperature during normal stove operation. Creosote accumulation can be dangerous, as it is flammable and burns hot.

If a flue is coated with creosote and ignited, perhaps by a spark going up the flue, it can cause a serious chimney fire that can lead to a structure fire. This can be avoided by using modern stoves and flue standards, burning dry wood, keeping your fires hot enough to maintain flue temperatures of at least degrees F at the top of the flue, and proper chimney cleaning as needed.

Multi-fuel stove designs are common in the United Kingdom , Ireland and Europe. They burn solid fuels only, including wood , wood pellets , coal and peat. They are typically made of steel or cast iron. Some models are also boiler stoves, with an attached water tank to provide hot water, and they can also be connected to radiators to add heat to the house, though they are usually not as efficient as a dedicated wood boiler. There are also stove models that can switch from wood fuel to oil or gas sources that are installed in the house to supply heat to a separate water boiler.

In some models, the oil or gas may fuel the stove through a pipe connection leading to a "pot burner" in the rear of the firewood compartment in the stove. Multi-fuel stoves are versatile, but usually perform poorly compared to a stove that is designed to burn one specific fuel as well as possible. Modern wood stoves universally have some method of secondary combustion to burn unburned gasses for greatly improved efficiency and emissions. One common method is via a catalyst.

A catalytic wood stove will re-burn the gasses from the firebox in a catalyst- a matrix of steel or ceramic plated with a catalyst that allows combustion of these gasses at much lower temperatures than would ordinarily be possible. This is why among modern stoves, catalytic models tend to be much better at achieving low, even heat output, which is desirable in warmer weather. Modern non-catalytic wood stoves will also reburn the gasses from the firebox, but require a much higher temperature for the secondary combustion. No catalyst is required.

These models lose a large amount of efficiency at low burn rates, as they cannot maintain secondary combustion, but can be very efficient at higher temperatures that allow secondary combustion.

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There also exist hybrid stoves that employ both catalytic and non-catalytic secondary combustion. Stoves that do not employ any secondary combustion still exist, but are markedly less efficient than a modern stove due to their lack of secondary combustion. In a conventional stove, when wood is added to a hot fire, a process of pyrolysis or destructive distillation begins. Gases or volatiles are evolved which are burned above the solid fuel. These are the two distinct processes going on in most solid fuel appliances.

In obsolete stoves without secondary combustion, air had to be admitted both below and above the fuel to attempt to increase combustion and efficiency. The correct balance was difficult to achieve in practice, and many obsolete wood-burning stoves only admitted air above the fuel as a simplification. Often the volatiles were not completely burned, resulting in energy loss, chimney tarring, and atmospheric pollution. To overcome this, the pyrolyzing stove was developed. The two processes go on in separate parts of the stove with separately controlled air supplies.

Most stoves designed to burn wood pellets fall into this category. Most pyrolyzing stoves regulate both fuel and air supply as opposed to controlling combustion of a mass of fuel by simple air regulation as in traditional stoves. The pelleted fuel is typically introduced into the pyrolyzing chamber with a screw conveyor.