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It’s Wine O’clock!

Sometimes the pleas were answered by the powers-that-be in the back rooms the chairmen ; mostly they were not, and we were kept to our original assigned flights. We got into a rhythm: The first days when I was there were basically elimination rounds. We were required to have compelling explanations for why a wine should—or should not—go on to the finals. Other wines were also re-tasted by the more senior judges, either to make sure they should be out of competition, or in case of any controversy on the floor.


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During our judging, as I said before, all wines were tasted blind, but we were told something about the general category of each wine flight. The first morning, we started with Champagne—probably to get us in a good mood. If so, it worked. We never knew what the next flight would bring. At some point we were given a lunch slot; when it was time, we made our way through a maze of courtyards and stairwells to a restaurant where a set meal had been ordered for us.

By then we were all glad to sit down and refuel with a hearty lunch.

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Having no sense of direction, I had made sure to keep close to someone who had been there before; I heard that a few people got lost on the way. Over the meal, there were also stories of former judges who had disgraced themselves by not spitting enough during the tastings, or who had fallen asleep with their heads on the tables. I vowed not to become legendary in this way.

Scarcely an hour after leaving, we were back in panel formation at our judging tables. The panel chairpersons were the keys to the success of each table. They could be men or women, they could range from informal to militarily precise in their leadership style.

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But they had to keep us moving forward at a good pace, encourage the exchange of ideas without getting chatty, and be the ultimate arbiters when their judges gave wildly divergent opinions. If they really found we were flagging, they had the power to take us over to the side of the room for a quick tea break—we did get one once, and it was incredibly welcome.

Logistics, as I mentioned, are a huge part of the competition. After I finished my two days of judging, I was allowed to go around the storerooms with Chris Ashton. He told me that the IWC had started in London 28 years before.

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